Gascogne
158 Eighth Avenue at 18th Street (Chelsea)
New York, NY
212/675-6564
Average Dinner about $75 per person, including two courses, wine, tax, and tip

Sometimes I think the French phrase, je ne sais quoi, was coined to express the elusive mix of comfort and familiarity I get when I dig into a bowl of cassoulet or nibble at a well-made, warm tarte Tatin. It's an indefinable "something" that you can't quite put your finger on--you just know you like it.

While a plate of meat loaf with mashed potatoes can ring the comfort food bell in my head at home, when dining out in New York, I return to my favorite French bistros. My criteria is always the quality of the food, but the atmosphere is important, too. A proper bistro should feel like a home away from home, without any pretense or attitude. I like a place that is busy enough to let you know that it's popular, but not so crowded that you are stressed out before you sit down! (Therefore, I am saving newer "in" French places, such as Pastis and Brasserie for another article where I rant about crowded, noisy, nerve-wracking places that should serve Valium with their Perrier.)

On the coldest night of the year (so far), I found myself at the far reaches of Chelsea at La Luncheonette. From the outside, this place looks pretty unassuming, to be polite, but with a name like La Luncheonette one shouldn't expect an Adam Tihany design sense. As you enter, you almost walk into the open kitchen. There's a large room on the left with a welcoming long bar (but we didn't notice any smokers), and a smaller dining room on the right. We were seated in the bar room, and hung our coats along the wall. We were seated near the hostess' desk, and we amazed to see her turn away "walk-ins" (restaurant jargon for people who come in off the street without reservations), even though she had a few free tables. She explained that they all had reservations that we coming in the next hour or so, and that she didn't want anyone to feel rushed. Gee, you mean we get to relax while we eat?

The menu at La Luncheonette is on a blackboard, so the chef is free to create specials. I've eaten here many times, and never had a loser, and you can depend on solid bistro fare like steak frites and grilled fish. The last time I visited, the three of us paid the chef the ultimate compliment, and all ordered the same dish: cassoulet ($18). It was a fine rendition, full of chunky meat, with nicely seasoned beans. For dessert, we asked for a piece of the tarte Tatin we spied cooling on a counter when we came in. However, our serving was seriously marred by a ill-advised trip to the microwave, which made it soggy. Too many restaurants habitually turn to the microwave to heat up desserts, and it drives me crazy, especially when you inadvertently bite into an apple pie that you thought was going to be room-temperature but inside hides a Vesuvius of molten sugar. In keeping with the reasonable prices, we had a delicious but downright inexpensive ($18) Cahors. As a bonus, when we got our coats to get back into the frigid night air, we found that they had been heated by the pipes along the wall. Now that's service!

Also on the Lower West Side (I sometimes think I choose my restaurants by their proximity to the Hudson River tunnels and ease of parking, but don't tell anyone) is another place where you wouldn't feel out of place in a beret--Gascogne. This is the place to come for game and foie gras, as the owner is Ariane Daugin of D'Artagnan. Here you'll find the substantial food of Gascony, as well as some nods to lighter cuisine such as seafood. If you like an after-dinner drink, pace yourself, as they have an incredible selection of armagnac, the French Southwest's brandy of choice, and not for the weak of liver.

Even though Gascogne sports an attractive summertime garden, I still think of it as a cold-weather restaurant. With a faux-countryside ambiance, it is as warm and cozy as a restaurant gets--the French pop music in the background adds to the Gallic charm. One recent evening, two excellent first-course specials were seafood in the Moroccan pastry known as briq (a flaky pastry that resembles filo dough, but bit crisper) and foie gras with lobster terrine. Entrees included moist roast pheasant breast (with a wonderful crisp potato cake) and grilled Argentine steak. We skipped dessert, but took the waiter's recommendation for a St. Estephe, Chateau de la Bastide. Dinner at Gascogne isn't cheap, but you can always rely on a fine meal in a comfortable setting with friendly service. And what more could you want from a bistro?