Viennese Pot Roast with Apple-Horseradish Sauce
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Makes 6 to 8 servings
The signature meat dish of Vienna, Tafelspitz, is nothing more than boiled beef. It can be humble, but in the right hands, it is sublime. One of the secrets is a rich broth, which should include meaty bones above and beyond the roast itself. (You will have an additional bonus of extra beef broth, which should be saved for another use.) There
Viennese restaurants that serve nothing but Tafelspitz prepared from various cuts of meat, each one with its own distinctly delicious flavor and texture. I prefer rump roast, which has a deep beefy taste and is easy to carve. To serve the pot roast in the true Viennese style, offer creamed spinach and potato pancakes together on a side plate. The
apple-horseradish sauce is a must.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, as needed 3 pounds assorted meaty bones, such as, beef shank, beef ribs, sliced breast of veal, or
beef soup bones
1 large onion, chopped
2 large celery ribs, cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 medium carrots, cut into 1/2-inch dice
4 garlic cloves, crushed under a knife
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, plus more for garnish
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 bay leaf
1 3 1/2- to 4-pound boneless beef rump roast
1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, plus more to taste
Apple-Horseradish Sauce
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 1-inch chunks
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons drained prepared horseradish
- Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a soup pot over medium-high heat. In batches, add the bones, and cook, turning occasionally, until browned, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a platter.
- If the oil has burned, pour it out of the pot, add 1 tablespoon additional oil to the pot, and heat over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, carrot, and garlic. Cover and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 10 minutes. Return the bones to the pot. Add 4
quarts cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Add the parsley, thyme, and bay leaf. Partially cover and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer for 2 hours.
- Season the beef with the salt and pepper and add to the simmering broth. Partially cover and simmer until the meat is tender, about 2 1/2 hours. (Rump roast is has a firm texture, so the best way to test for tenderness is to transfer the roast to a cutting board and carve off a thin slice, cutting across, not with, the grain.)
- While the roast is simmering, make the sauce. Bring the apples, sugar, and 1/4 cup of water to a simmer over medium-low heat. Cover tightly and cook, stirring occasionally and checking for scorching, until the apples are tender, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, add the horseradish, and mash with a fork. Cool to room temperature.
- Transfer the meat to a cutting board and cover with aluminum foil to keep warm. Remove the cooking liquid from the heat and let stand 3 minutes. Skim off any fat from the surface. Taste, and if the flavor could be stronger, boil over high heat to reduce slightly, about 10 minutes. Using tongs, remove the bones. Season the broth with salt
and pepper.
- Carving across the grain, cut the meat into 1/2-inch thick slices and place in soup bowls. Ladle some of the broth and vegetables over each serving and sprinkle with parsley. (Reserve the remaining beef broth for another use; cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days, or freeze for up to 3 months.) Serve hot, with the applesauce passed on the side.
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