Make-Ahead: I think scalloped potatoes are best served immediately after baking. They will stay hot, covered with foil, for about 30 minutes.

No bland scalloped potatoes at my dinner table. I kept fiddling with the amount and types of cheeses until a got a full-flavored version that is hard to resist. Do not slice the potatoes until the last minute--if cut and held in cold water, the starch that holds the layers together will be rinsed off.

3/4 cup shredded extra-sharp Cheddar cheese
3/4 cup crumbled Danish blue cheese
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
4 pounds baking potatoes, such as Idaho or russet, peeled, and cut into 1/4-inch thick slices (8 medium)
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons finely chopped onion
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 cups milk (not lowfat), heated to simmering

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat oven to 400°F. Lightly butter a 13 by 9-inch baking dish. In a small bowl, mix the Cheddar, blue, and Parmesan cheeses; set aside.

2. Arrange half of the potatoes in the prepared baking dish. In a small bowl, combine the salt and pepper, and season the potatoes with half of the mixture. Sprinkle with the onion and flour, dot with 2 tablespoons butter, then top with half of the cheese mixture. Repeat with the remaining potatoes, salt and pepper, and butter. Reserve the remaining cheese. Pour the milk over the potatoes. (Milk doesn't need to cover potatoes.) Cover with aluminum foil.

3. Bake for 45 minutes. Uncover and sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Bake, uncovered, until the potatoes are very tender and the cheese is golden brown, about 45 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.