Makes 4 to 6 servings

These incredible mashed potatoes are based on the ones I learned to make when working with chef Alfred Portale on his book, The Gotham Bar and Grill Cookbook. When Alfred makes them, he uses a stick of butter, but I am satisfied this more modest amount.

3 pounds baking potatoes (such as russet, Idaho, Burbank, or Eastern)
Salt
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup sour cream, at room temperature
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
Freshly ground pepper, preferably white pepper

1. Fill a large pot halfway with cold water. Peel the potatoes, cut into chunks about 1 1/2-inch square, and drop them into the pot. Add more cold water to completely cover the potatoes by 1 to 2 inches. (The potatoes can be prepared up to this point up to 4 hours ahead and stored at cool room temperature.)


2. Stir in enough salt until the water tastes mildly salted. Cover tightly and bring to a boil over high heat, about 20 minutes.


3. Reduce the heat to medium-low and set the lid askew. Cook at a moderate boil until the potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a small sharp knife, about 20 minutes; add more boiling water, if needed, to keep the potatoes covered. Do not overcook the potatoes.


4. Drain the potatoes well and return to the warm cooking pot. Add the butter. Using a hand- held electric mixer set at medium speed, add the butter and mash the potatoes (or use an old- fashioned potato masher). Mix in the sour cream and chives. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a warmed serving dish and serve immediately.