Make-Ahead: The trifle should be prepared at least 8 hours, and can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.

Lovers of gooey desserts will give this trifle high marks. Pound cake spread with raspberry jam, drizzled with sherry or apple juice, and layered in a glass trifle bowl with raspberries and custard sauce, the disparate ingredients marry into an impressively rich concoction that is perfect for feeding a crowd. But one word of advice: Trifle is only as good as its components. Buy a good pound cake from your favorite bakery, imported preserves, and a nice bottle of sherry, and you'll have a masterpiece.

• A smooth custard sauce is one of the hallmarks of a good cook. It is stirred constantly to discourage the eggs from overcooking and scrambling. A wooden spatula works better than a wooden spoon because it scrapes the bottom of the pan more efficiently and can get into the corners more efficiently.

• Don't overcook the custard, or the eggs will scramble. The custard should cook to the point when it thickens enough to nicely coat the wooden spatula. Until you've done this enough that you recognize the thickness by sight, use an instant-read thermometer to gauge when the custard is cooked to 185°F. If you cook the custard much beyond this point, or anywhere near the boiling temperature of 212°F, it will become grainy. Some cooks rescue scrambled custard by whirling it in a blender until smooth again, but, I find the fixed sauce tastes "eggy" If you do botch a batch, it's best to toss it out and start over again.

• Custards are strained before serving to remove any pieces of cooked egg white and ensure a silky smooth texture. Egg whites set at a lower temperature than egg yolks, so there will always be a few strands of stray white or chalazae (the thin white cord attached to the yolks) in the sauce that should be removed.

• You can make the trifle in any 3-quart glass bowl, but a footed glass trifle bowl looks especially festive. (After the holidays, use the bowl to serve fruit or vegetable salads or tiramisł.) Trifle bowls are available at houseware stores during the holiday season.

2 1/2 cups milk (not low-fat)
1/2 cup granulated sugar
7 large egg yolks, at room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
One 16-ounce store-bought pound cake, cut into 1/2-inch thick slices
1 cup high-quality raspberry preserves
1/2 cup sweet sherry, such as cream or oloroso
2 pints fresh or frozen raspberries (see Note)
2 cups heavy cream
3 tablespoons confectioners' sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/3 cup sliced almonds, toasted

1. Start the trifle at least 8 hours before serving. To make the custard sauce, in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan, heat the milk and sugar over medium-low heat until very hot, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk the yolks to combine. Gradually stir about 1 cup of the hot milk mixture into the yolks, then whisk them into the saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spatula, until the custard is thick enough to coat the spoon, about 3 minutes. An instant-read thermometer inserted into the custard will read 185°F. Do not let the custard come to a boil. Strain the custard through a wire sieve into a medium bowl. Press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the custard and pierce a few holes into the wrap with the tip of a sharp knife. Let stand on a wire cake rack until cooled to room temperature.

3. Stand cake slices around the inside of the bowl, and more on the bottom, trimming the cake as needed. Drizzle about 1/4 cup of the sherry over the cake. Using a rubber spatula, spread preserves on the exposed sides cake slices (this doesn't have to look perfect.) Fill the bowl with half of the raspberries. Top with more cake slices, spread with preserves, and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of sherry. Repeat with the remaining raspberries, cake slices, preserves, and sherry. (Don't be concerned if you have leftover cake or not quite enough.) Slowly pour the custard sauce over all. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, preferably overnight. (The trifle can be prepared up to this point 1 day ahead.)

4. Just before serving, in a chilled large bowl, using a hand-held electric mixer set at high speed, beat the cream, confectioners' sugar, and vanilla until stiff. Spread over the top of the trifle and sprinkle with the almonds. Serve chilled, and serving some of the whipped cream topping and almonds with each portion.

   Note: Use individually frozen raspberries, not block-frozen. Place the frozen raspberries in a wire sieve and rinse under cold running water to remove any ice crystals. Do not thaw the raspberries completely.