Make-Ahead: Eggnog should be chilled at least 4 hours before serving, and served within 24 hours.

This has an even creamier texture than the old-fashioned kind made with heavy cream. The cooked egg yolks make this the nog of choice for cooks who prefer to avoid raw eggs.

4 cups half-and-half or milk
1 1/2 cups sugar
12 large egg yolks
1/2 cup dark rum
1/2 cup brandy
1/4 cup bourbon
2 cups heavy cream
1 pint high-quality vanilla ice cream
Freshly grated nutmeg

1. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, stir the half-and-half with the sugar until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is hot. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks. Gradually whisk in the hot mixture. Return to the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thick enough to coat a spoon (a thermometer will read about 185° F.), about 3 minutes. Strain into another medium bowl. Cool completely. Whisk in the rum, brandy, and bourbon. Cover and refrigerate until well-chilled, at least 4 hours.

2. In a chilled, medium bowl, beat the heavy cream just until stiff. Fold into the chilled custard. Pour into punch bowl and add the ice cream. Grate the nutmeg over the eggnog, and serve chilled.