Spring 2008 Menu Fettuccine with Fiddleheads and Ham Lamb and Mint Risotto Meyer Lemon and Pistachio Bars Chicken Breast and Baby Artichoke Fricassee Main Recipe Index

Makes 4 generous main course or 6 first-course servings

When a chilly spring evening calls for a hearty, warming main course, consider this risotto. The traditional method does require almost constant stirring, but I don't mind that chore at all because it allows me to slow down and enjoy the pleasures of cooking. To save some time and effort, however, I also provide a pressure cooker variation.

7 cups chicken broth, as needed
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 pound boneless leg of lamb, trimmed and cut into bite-sized servings
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 medium onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups rice for risotto, such as Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano
1/2 cup dry red wine, such as Shiraz
1 teaspoon tomato paste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
1/2 freshly grated Romano or Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving

1. Bring the broth to a simmer in a medium saucepan over high heat. Reduce the heat to very low to keep the broth hot.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large, heavy-bottomed flameproof casserole over medium-high heat. Season the lamb with salt and pepper. In batches, add the lamb to the casserole and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the lamb to a plate.
3. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil to the skillet and heat. Add the onion, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the butter and let it melt. Add the risotto and cook, stirring often, until it is well-coated with the fat and feels heavier in the spoon, about 2 minutes.
4. Add the red wine and the tomato paste to the rice. Cook, stirring to dissolve the tomato paste, until the wine is almost completely evaporated, about 1 minute. Add 1 cup of the hot broth to the rice and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring almost constantly and adjusting the heat as needed to keep the broth at a steady, somewhat brisk simmer, until the rice has almost completely absorbed it, 2 to 3 minutes. Continue adding the broth, 1 cup at a time, stirring until it is almost absorbed, until the rice is barely tender and you have used all of the broth, about 20 minutes longer, adding the lamb with the final batch of broth. The consistency should be loose, like a very thick soup, so stir in more liquid as needed. Add the butter, then stir in the rice, red wine, and tomato paste.
5. 5. Remove from the heat and stir in the cheese and mint. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, with more grated cheese passed on the side.

Pressure Cooker Variation: Making risotto in a pressure cooker gets the job done, but the liquid won't be as quite as creamy as the hand-stirred version. Heat the oil in a 6-quart pressure cooker over high heat. Brown the lamb in batches, transferring the lamb to a platter. Add the onion and cook, then the garlic. Stir in the rice, then the red wine and tomato paste. Return the lamb to the pot, add the broth, and lock the lid in place. Bring to high pressure over high heat. Adjust the heat to maintain pressure. Cook for 6 minutes. Remove from the heat and quick-release the pressure. Open the lid, tilting it away from you to block any escaping steam. Taste the risotto; it should be barely tender (al dente). If necessary, return to medium-low heat, add 1/2 cup broth or water and stir until the rice is tender. Stir in the mint and Parmesan cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.