French Onion and Olive "Pizza"

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Makes 8 to 12 appetizer servings

Although pissaladière is a specialty of Provençe , and not the Pèrigord, it is a versatile snack that can also do double-duty as a light main course, served with a big salad. We quickly downed an entire tray with plenty of cool rosé. If you can find it, substitute a hard grating goat cheese for the Parmesan, which delivers more French character.

Starter
1/2 cup warm (110°F or so) water
2 teaspoons active dry yeast (not quite a full 1/4-ounce envelope)
1/2 cup bread or unbleached all-purpose flour

Dough
1 cup cool water
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the bowl
1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt or table salt
3 cups bread or unbleached all-purpose flour, as needed

Topping
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the pan and crust
4 large yellow onions (about 2 pounds), coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
about 24 black Mediterranean-style olives, pitted and halved
1/2 cup freshly grated Romano cheese
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
  1. To make the starter, stir the water and yeast in the work bowl of a heavy-duty electric mixer until the yeast dissolves. Add the flour and stir for 100 strokes (this activates the gluten in the flour). Cover with plastic wrap and let stand in a warm place until very bubbly, about 40 minutes.
  2. Add the cool water, oil, and salt to the bowl and stir well. Attach the bowl to the mixer with the paddle blade. Mix on low speed, adding enough of the flour to make a soft, pliable dough that barely clears the sides of the bowl. Switch to the dough hook and mix on medium-low speed until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes.
  3. Gather up the dough into a ball. Lightly oil a medium bowl. Add the ball of dough and turn to coat the dough with oil. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let stand until the dough doubles in volume, about 1 1/2 hours. (If you have the time, refrigerate the dough for 8 to 18 hours. Remove from the refrigerator and let come to room temperature before proceeding.)
  4. To make the filling, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring often, until soft and golden, but not caramelized, about 20 minutes. During the last 5 minutes, add the garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Cool.
  5. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F. Lightly oil a rimmed baking sheet, about 12 X 15-inches. Punch down the dough, and transfer to the sheet. Stretch and pat the dough into the sheet. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand until puffy, about 20 minutes.
  6. Spread with the onion topping, leaving a 1/2-inch border around the edges. Arrange the olives evenly over the onions, and sprinkle with the cheese. Brush the edges of the dough with a little oil. Bake until the edges and bottom are golden brown (lift up the edge to check the center of the bottom crust), 20 to 25 minutes. Cool slightly or to room temperature. Cut into pieces and serve.


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