Makes 6 sandwiches

Eggplant has a substantial, almost meaty texture that makes it a great sandwich filling. These sandwiches, hot from the grill, have other layers of flavor beyond the eggplant itself. (Cook the eggplant and toast the bread in a broiler, if you wish.) Crusty sourdough bread is a must, and peppery arugula and sun-dried tomato pesto are much more interesting than lettuce and mayonnaise. Ricotta salata is a firm, sliceable version of the soft cheese, but you can substitute fontina if you wish. Ricotta salata and sun-dried tomato pesto can be found at specialty grocers, Italian delicatessens, and many supermarkets. I've provided a recipe for the pesto if you want to make your own.

1 large (1 1/2 pounds) eggplant, top trimmed
1 teaspoon salt
Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed
12 slices crusty sourdough bread (cut from a round loaf)
1 cup sun-dried tomato pesto
6 ounces ricotta salata, cut into 1/4-inch thick slices
1 bunch arugula, well rinsed and dried

1. Using a serrated knife, cut the eggplant crosswise into 12 to 14 slices about 1/2 inch thick. Place the eggplant in a colander, sprinkling with the salt. Let stand in a sink to drain for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Rinse the eggplant quickly under cold water to remove the salt. Pat dry with paper towels.
2. Meanwhile, build a charcoal fire in an outdoor grill and let burn until the coals are covered with white ash and they are medium-hot (you should be able to hold your hand just above the grate for 3 seconds). For a gas grill, preheat on High, then reduce the heat to Medium.
3. Lightly oil the grill. Lightly brush both sides of the eggplant with oil. Place the eggplant on the grill and cover. Cook until the underside of the eggplant is browned, about 4 minutes. Turn and cook until the eggplant is tender, about 4 minutes more. Transfer to a platter.
4. Place the bread slices on the grill and grill, turning once, until toasted, about 1 minute. Transfer to the platter.
5. For each sandwich, spread two bread slices with the pesto. Place two eggplant slices on one piece of the bread, and top a couple of slices of ricotta salata and a few arugula leaves. Top with the second piece of bread and cut in half. Serve immediately.