My friends know that I can be counted on to make this at least once every summer. It takes a good amount of time to cook, but any effort is entirely worthwhile. Like any good Texas BBQ, it has a mopping sauce for basting, and a sopping sauce for serving.

Call your butcher ahead of time to get a whole brisket--it will weigh 9 to 13 pounds. It will probably come in a vacuum-sealed package. Trim off all but 1/2-inch of the top layer of fat, then cut the brisket in half crosswise. Don't use trimmed brisket, as it is too lean.

If you are using a gas grill, mesquite wood sawdust or mini-chips work best as they catch fire easier than chunks or regular chips. In California, I bought some at Long's Drugs. Even without the smoky flavor, this brisket is great.

One whole (9 to 13 pounds) beef brisket, trimmed, and cut in half crosswise
1/4 cup chili powder
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon onion powder
Can of Suds Basting Sauce
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 (12-ounce) can lager beer
1/4 cup cider vinegar
2 tablespoons spicy brown mustard
2 tablespoons catsup
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon salt

4 cups mesquite chips, soaked in water for at least 30 minutes, and drained

All-American BBQ Sauce (recipe follows)

12 soft rolls, split

2. To make the basting sauce, heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the beer, vinegar, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes.

3. Build a charcoal fire on the bottom of one side of an outdoor grill and let burn until covered with white ash. The fire should be medium-hot--you should be able to hold your hand at grate level for 3 seconds. Place a large disposable aluminum foil pan on the other side of the grill and fill halfway with water. Sprinkle the coals with a handful of drained chips. For a gas grill, preheat on High. Turn one burner off, and the other burner(s) to Low. Place a large disposable aluminum pan on the off burner and fill halfway with water. Place a handful of chips in the grill's metal chip holder. Or, wrap a handful of chips in aluminum foil, pierce a few holes in the foil, and place the foil packet on the heat source.

4. Lightly oil the grill grid. Place the brisket over the pan, fat side up, and cover the grill. Smoke the brisket until very tender and a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part reads 190š F., about 6 to 8 hours. About every 40 minutes, baste well with the beer sauce, and add more ignited coals and chips to maintain a temperature of about 300š F. (If your grill doesn't have a thermostat on its lid, place an oven thermometer next to the brisket to get a reading.) For a gas grill, add more chips or foil packets every 30 minutes.

5. Let the brisket stand for 10 minutes, then slice thinly across the grain. Serve on the rolls with the barbecue sauce passed on the side.

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup catsup
1 cup American-style chili sauce
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
1/2 cup cider vinegar
2 tablespoons steak sauce, such as A-1
2 tablespoons spicy brown mustard
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce