Make-Ahead: The ham should be served within 2 hours of baking.

A sweet and tangy glazed smoked ham is another versatile holiday entree, equally at home on the dinner or buffet table. (Not to mention the bonus of leftover ham for post-party sandwiches and casseroles.) This recipe features the familiar flavors of glazed ham without resorting to the usual route of brown sugar, pineapple slices and maraschino cherries. If you can't find pineapple preserves, substitute apricot preserves.

• In my opinion, a bone-in smoked ham is the best bet as it gives the most flavor for the money. Other hams, such as canned hams, country ham (Smithfield or Virginia-types), or partially-cooked hams have different flavors, textures, and cooking techniques. I prefer the a shank-end ham because it looks more dramatic than the butt portion. My second choice is an unglazed, boneless spiral-sliced ham because it is easy to serve. If you purchase a glazed spiral-sliced ham, cook it according to the accompanying instructions, and skip the pineapple glaze.

• This recipe uses a average-sized 8-pound ham, but larger or smaller hams can be used to accommodate the amount of people you want to serve (and the leftovers you want to have!) Allow 15 minutes per pound at 325°F, glazing the ham during the last hour of baking, and make more or less glaze as needed.

• Sure, baked ham is delicious, but it also looks terrific on a buffet because it stands tall on the platter, and height adds visual interest to the display. I found a ham-holder at a garage sale. It is a metal ring with prongs attached to a wooden board that lifts the whole ham up and holds it securely that securely for slicing. If you find one at a kitchenware or restaurant supply store (or garage sale or second-hand shop), grab it. A conical-shaped ham holder, which holds a shank-end ham straight up, is available by mail order from Kitchen Glamour (1-800-641-1252). Don't confuse it with an Italian prosciutto holder, which is too narrow to hold an American ham.

• Common food safety requires that meat stands no longer than 2 hours at room temperature before serving. This isn't always easy to do. If necessary, serve sliced ham and replenish the platter as needed.

One 8-pound bone-in smoked ham, preferably the shank end
1 cup pineapple preserves
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 1/2 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Line a roasting pan with aluminum foil.

2. Using a sharp knife, trim off all of the skin, except for a 1- to 2-inch band around the shank. Trim off all of the fat, leaving a less than 1/4-inch thick layer.

3. In a small bowl, whisk the preserves, Dijon mustard, and mustard seeds and set aside.

4. Bake the ham on a roasting rack in the pan. Bake until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the ham (without touching a bone) registers 140°F, about 2 hours (allow 15 minutes per pound). During the last hour of the roasting, baste with half of the glaze. After 30 minutes, baste with the remaining glaze.

5. Transfer the ham to a carving board or platter. Let stand for 15 to 30 minutes before carving.