Ever been disappointed when you've cut into a tall apple pie only to find that the apples have shrunk and left a big space between the fruit and crust? Precooking and cooling the apples first solves this problem. I like Golden Delicious apples, which are tasty and juicy, but you can also experiment with other varieties. Granny Smith, Pippin, Mutsu, and Gravenstein are all good choices, and it's a good idea to mix a few varieties for even better flavor Avoid Red Delicious, Jonathon, and McIntosh (which cook up mealy or break down into a mushy applesauce).

For old-fashioned flavor and a flaky texture, I use vegetable shortening with my apple pies. If no one is looking, I often substitute lard, which really makes a great crust.

Pie Dough
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
3/4 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup chilled vegetable shortening, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, chilled
1/2 cup ice water, approximately

Filling
5 pounds Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch wedges
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
2/3 cup packed brown sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

1 tablespoon heavy cream or milk
1/2 teaspoon sugar

1. To make the pie dough: In a medium bowl, mix the flour, sugar and salt. Using a pastry blender, cut in the shortening until the mixture resembles coarse cornmeal with a few pea-sized pieces. Stir in enough of the ice water until the dough is completely moistened and begins to clump together. Gather up the dough and divide into two flat disks, in two-third and one-third portions. Wrap each in waxed paper and chill for 1hour.

2. To make the filling: In a large bowl, toss the apple wedges with apple juice. Heat 3 tablespoons butter in very large skillet over medium heat. Add half of the apples and 1/3 cup brown sugar. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the apples are barely tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a roasting pan. Repeat with the remaining butter, apples, and brown sugar. Cool completely. Mix in the flour, cinnamon, allspice, and cloves.

3. Place a baking sheet or baking stone in the oven and preheat oven to 375°F. (This gives the pie a flat surface to bake on, and promotes a crisp bottom crust.) On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the larger portion of dough into a 1/8-inch thick circle. Fit into 9-inch pie pan, trimming overhang to 1-inch beyond edge of pan. Fill the crust with the cooled apple mixture. Roll out the remaining dough into a 1/8-inch thick circle. Fit over apple mixture to cover. Press the edges of the dough together and flute. Cut a small hole in center of pie. Brush the top of pie lightly with the cream and sprinkle with the sugar.

4. Bake on baking sheet until the pie crust is golden brown and the filling is bubbling through the hole, about 1 1/4 hours. Cool until warm. Serve warm or cooled to room temperature.